NDSCLSD Fall/Winter 2025
Malakaï Vandelac-Douwstra is bored with fashion and has no qualms about saying it. If that makes him the bad guy, then at his second solo showcase, much like Scarface, everybody said goodnight to the bad guy. Douwstra revels in the villain role, unapologetically embracing it as one of the driving forces behind the collection— a declaration of rebellion against the mundanity of the fashion world. Through his recent masterpieces, it became evident that it’s the bad guys, the villains, who make fashion exciting again.
The Fall/Winter 2025 collection, Supervillains® was a stark exploration of high-fashion villainy, hosted at Tonitex, in the heartbeat of Montréal’s garment district. Douwstra’s transformed the industrial, utilitarian space into a grunge-like Gotham City, complete with towering stacks of fabric rolls, materials spilling down the once aisles-turned runway, and boxes piled haphazardly in the makeshift backstage. The chaotic atmosphere mirrored the dystopian essence of the collection, immersing attendees in the shadowy underbelly of a world where fashion’s antiheroes reign supreme.
Douwstra’s intention behind choosing the family-owned location was deeply personal. Much like the atmosphere created backstage he embraces a community-driven approach to his work. “This is where I source all my fabrics,” he explained. “It’s a place that resonates with me because they deal in end-of-runs—leftover fabrics that didn’t make it into production elsewhere. That aligns with my belief that we don’t need to manufacture more fabrics when there’s already so much to work with”.
At the heart of Supervillains® was Douwstra’s decision to fully embrace the idea of the villain as the ultimate muse. “Villains always have the better wardrobe,” he emphasized. “They’re more interesting, more stylish, and unapologetically themselves. That’s what I wanted to capture in this collection—clothes that stand out and make no apologies”. The concept wasn’t just about dark, ominous fashion but a larger commentary on rejecting commercial constraints and favouring creative freedom. So it was in this realm that he explored darker hues, offset construction, and distressed materials.
Each garment in the collection was a testament to Douwstra’s experimental approach to fabric manipulation and texture. Pieces clashed with each other in unexpected harmony—sequins, tulle, leather, and knits all collided in a bold display of contrast. “I’m tired of fashion being boring,” he admitted. “This season, I wanted to push boundaries.” The opening look was a decadent sequin bomber jacket layered with five layers of tulle (Look 1). Douwstra explains that while it glistens in appearance now, over time, the tulle will rip, revealing more elements that would age with the wearer—becoming more beautiful with each tear.
Douwstra says this was a mature evolution from his last showcase, where he was able to be hands-on with the entire creative process. But what effortlessly evolved was his ability to create a dynamic multi-use piece. Standout garments of this nature were knitted and crafted in collaboration with his muse and girlfriend, Bianca Ioana Condruz. The knit and crochet pieces featured leather-lined hoods (Look 5) that could be unzipped and rearranged into various shapes or a sack (Look 24). “It was all about finding the right balance between functionality and creativity. We tested multiple ways to incorporate leather into knitwear without compromising its flexibility,” Douwstra explained. The result was an eclectic display of versatility, adding an element of playfulness to the otherwise severe, villainous aesthetic.
Textile clashing was at the core of Supervillains®. Douwstra incorporated hand-dyed fabrics into his designs, infusing custom hues that could only be achieved through this labour-intensive process. “We dyed everything ourselves,” he said proudly, recalling the hour-long sessions at Biscotte Yarn with Audrey Bélanger and Condruz creating and crafting the hand-dyed pieces that stood out under the dark lights.
These intricate designs, featuring hand-dyed fabrics, bold fabric juxtapositions, and multi-functional elements, came together with remarkable cohesion. Each piece carried a personal touch, artfully balancing the boundary between couture and ready-to-wear, showcasing Douwstra’s ability to merge experimental craftsmanship with wearable artistry that blurs the line between couture and ready-to-wear.
Beyond the craftsmanship, the collection was a visual narrative of rebellion styled by Charlotte Brault, with the beauty direction of Juliette Dugas. Models strutted down the fabric-lined aisles, embodying the spirit of Douwstra’s villains—each powerful and striking in detail from eyeshadow to face contouring. Magnifying the glamour of the villainous aesthetic was the eclectic hand-sculpted silverware by Derep Studios and goth-like design earpieces by V4ME Jewelry. The casting, a mix of familiar faces from Douwstra’s previous show and fresh talent, brought a diverse energy to the runway. “I wanted models who could embody the strength and attitude of a villain. It’s not just about wearing the clothes, but owning the character.” Amongst the cast was music producer and artist Delorean Black (Look 14).
The finale was an unexpected, heartwarming contrast to the dark, brooding atmosphere of the show. Rather than taking the final bow alone, Douwstra invited his entire team to join him on the runway in a declaration of his deep love and gratitude to his team. “None of it would be possible without the people who support me and the people who are part of my team,” he explained. “I love them with all my heart because they bring me places where I wouldn't be able to go without them”.
NDSCLSD’s Supervillains® proved that fashion’s villains can be heroes in their own right—commanding attention not only with their rebellious spirit but with garments that are daring, imaginative, and entirely unforgettable.
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