GORM Spring/Summer 2025
Birds of a feather flock together every time GORM puts on a show, but this time, the feathers were on the runway. Who would have thought? Only creative lead and designer Bianca Nachtman, the mastermind behind the conceptual brand that uses recycled materials to create one-of-a-kind pieces. At Fashion Art Toronto (F.A.T.), the collection Wild Mother, You and I Are Earth was a display of historical feminine suppression juxtaposed with biophilia and spirituality. It was a narrative rooted in groundedness to the world’s natural rhythms, accompanied by guitar solos, birds chirping, and branches dragging to paint the audio-visuals.
The show featured floral elements, including oversized branches with dried hydrangeas, red berries, and twigs. As models carried nature's pollinated gifts down the runway, it was fair to say that F.A.T.'s audience was pulled into the wild.
Other elements were more fiery, leaving behind an aftermath of cleared sinuses. Nachtman’s chilli pepper neckpieces trailed down the backs of models in cascading, almost serpentine lines, emphasizing movement and vitality. This detail bridged nature's raw intensity with a delicate danger. It was playful, spicy (literally), and a meaningful nod to nature's presence in our lives... but we’ll get to Nachtman’s use of this vegetable later.
GORM has gotten in touch with nature before, like with The Sea Creature Dress from 2022, crafted entirely from seashells sourced from P.E.I. However, Nachtman describes this collection as a journey she’s been waiting to embark on. It’s the first time the brand has committed to something so labour-intensive across an entire collection, diving deeper into the tactile relationship between fashion and the natural world.
This collection was inspired by Alexander McQueen’s The Horn of Plenty. In particular, a standout design of inspiration featured an avian balaclava top (look 9) constructed entirely of feathers extending upward to frame the neck and head, leaving just the face visible—like a phoenix reborn. Paired with this piece are simple black opaque tights, channelling unapologetic sexiness that’s all about power and raw, untamed allure.
There’s a deliberate sensual and dainty ambiance woven into this collection that further embraces femininity as a force of nature. Boasting a romantic silhouette (look 1) is a red lace maxi dress that drapes gently, completed with a corset back revealing skin beneath. Similar lace-up detailing is found on the back of one of the more dramatic pieces (look 14): a full-length gown crafted from voluminous, shaggy white and brown fur. The piece is accented with striking horn-like details at the hips, evoking a primal yet majestic presence. Trailing behind is a bundle of dried flora, creating a naturalistic train that grounds the look in raw, earthy textures. In total, 11 of the 18 looks feature open-back tops; and ever heard of open-back skirts? Yeah, it looks how it sounds.
Throughout the collection, mini dresses came with structured bodices in an array of textures like fur and crushed velvet. Delicate materials like sequinned beads (looks 6, 7, 8) and soft ivory crochet (looks 17, 18) lent a graceful touch to the collection, punctuated by flashes of red that invited dark femininity.
But there’s another layer here—a powerful juxtaposition explored through medieval-inspired elements, with models wearing a high-neck draping top in a knight and shining armour motif (look 17). The chainmail hood piece (look 10) felt like a callback to figures like Joan of Arc, who was burned at the stake—a fate that highlights the historical fear of women who dared to step into positions of authority or challenge societal norms. Oh, and those chilli peppers? One could say they’re a playful allusion to the flames that engulfed Joan. Femininity remains central to the narrative, as both looks are paired with delicate lace skirts and crochet open-back tops, softening the armour-like motifs with a breathtaking touch.
“Femininity isn’t what we think it is today,” Nachtman explained post-show. Her lineup of non-binary and androgynous models challenged traditional notions of femininity, embodying the collection’s ethos of fluidity and boundless expression. By pushing boundaries, GORM continues to establish itself as a platform for unlearning limitations and embracing new definitions of identity.
With Nachtman at the helm, there are no limits to the brand’s ability to shock, awe, and redefine expectations. It’s always exciting to uncover the new ways GORM continues to captivate and provoke, delivering designs that teach, inspire, and remain steadfast in their ethos.
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